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By allgonoshow
#6034
TS125A. 6.7 Cummins. 16 speed Trans.
By allgonoshow
#6076
try to think slippy slidy over rocks when you are making your frt brackets.  imagine pulling up to a 4 foot boulder and really wanting to get your frt tires on it.  with a custom 4 link it's easy, the tires are the first thing to hit. 

with leaf springs or even most things with a steering box you will have other "stuff" that will be meeting that rock before your tires will. 

you want to make sure the things that are meeting that rock before your tires will want to easily slide up that rock until your tire has the opportunity to get some traction on it and start climbing.

every little bit helps.  you can't believe how many tourists i've seen show up with this super awesome crazy travel 4 link coil over suspended and rediculously expensive custom made machine that has 4 link bracket crap dragging on the ground all over the place and gets hooked on a rock every 10 feet.

make everything as smooth and slippery as possible  [smiley=beer.gif]

I thought of that too, and it would be the logical thing to do, and you are 100% right, and I appreciate you pointed it out, and I appreciate all the advice you give me, but the hangers are staying :(.

I put a tape on it today and decided on a 108''ish wheelbase.
User avatar
By axleater
#6117
maybe just flip them around ?
By allgonoshow
#6157
maybe just flip them around ?

The front hangers need to "kick out" becuase I am using 57'' Ford rear springs, and I am using the original rear hangers with a shackle at the rear. The front eye of the 57'' springs are 25'' to the axle center pin. Therefore, with a 42'' to 44'' tire, I will have a really good approach angle. The approach angle will be even better than my 79'. I could smooth out the sharp point some I guess....
By allgonoshow
#6197
I took out the plasma and cut off the points and smoothed them out a little. I will cut out a piece for each hanger and bend it around so that it acts like a little skid. There is alot more to add to the front of this. Between checking my cows, and fixing some fence, I made some pretty good progress.

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I am going to clean shop tomorrow night, it is becoming a disaster area. I might be heading up to pick up an 86 F-250 parts truck. I will use the rear springs and rear 10.25 rear axle out of this truck.
User avatar
By axleater
#6237
less ton springs will last longer and give better flexitivity
By allgonoshow
#6275
less ton springs will last longer and give better flexitivity

I am using the rears springs up front, I think I will need the heavier F-250 springs with all the weight of the big block on the front end.
User avatar
By axleater
#6350
you want thinner springs with more of them. 3/4 and 1 ton springs are actually designed to not flex and be able to support heavy loads. trying to make them flex will result in broken springs, they are just not ment to move that much.

the other problem you may run into with an offset spring in the front and your shackles in the back makes for some pretty crazy "swing" to your axle movement.

kind of hard to explain, and just about everyone that does it has the problem and non of them can seem to figure out why so they just try to bandaid it together and try and compensate.

because your frt axle is going to be bolted to the upward arch side of the spring, it will turn the pinion down or up as it articulates. this may not be a huge problem with a high pinion frt end but it will also use alot of driveline slip and cause potential binding at the pinion ujoint.

to see what i mean, clamp something on the spring where the axle will bolt on and rotate it up and down on the fixed end without the shackle being connected.

you may not have a problem with super stiff springs. but if you start getting some real travel out of it there will be some wierd stuff going on.
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